Grissini

When my mother asked me if I knew of a good recipe for breadsticks, I was appalled by the realization that not only had I never made breadsticks, but could not recall ever reading anything on the subject. After years of obsessively poring over cookbooks, it hardly seemed possible. Surely the subject was covered in Beard on Bread or The Bread Bible, a cookbook so beloved that I even brought it with me to China. Breadsticks must have been covered in one of my many Italian cookbooks, or at the very least in How to Cook Everything. Yet somehow I managed to absorb nothing on the topic, and was forced to do what I always do in these situations: bluff.

“I think Cooks Illustrated has a great recipe,” I told my mother, carefully neglecting to mention that I had never actually seen it. Sure enough, the magazine covered grissini in 2002 — years before I subscribed, so I can’t blame myself for having missed it. The dough is simple enough: basically the same as a pizza dough, with a little less oil.

Shaping the breadsticks proved to be a little tricky. Cooks recommended rolling the dough into a 12 by 18 inch rectangle, and then cutting it into 3/4-inch strips. I don’t have a kitchen ruler, and always felt that homemade food should have a rustic feeling. The results of my desultory efforts were quite homely indeed; the differing lengths and thicknesses made it difficult to achieve consistent cooking.

I often wonder if it is worth the effort to bake bread at home when grocery stores sell delicious, artisanal loaves. These breadsticks were worlds above the bland, cardboard rods you buy at the market. They had a great crunch and a subtle olive-oil flavor, and filled my apartment with a delicious aroma. Best of all, they were a blast to make.

Grissini:
Cooks Illustrated

Dough

7/8 cup warm water (about 110 degrees)
1 tbs extra-virgin olive oil
2 cups bread flour, plus more for dusting work surface and hands
1 tsp instant yeast
1 tsp kosher salt

Topping

1 1/2 tsp coarse sea salt
1 tsp coarsely ground black pepper
1/2 tsp fennel seeds, finely chopped

Making the Dough

Combine water and oil in 2-cup liquid measuring cup. Process flour, yeast, and salt in food processor, pulsing to combine. Continue pulsing while pouring liquid ingredients (holding back a few tablespoons) through feed tube. If dough doesn’t readily form ball, add remaining liquid and continue to pulse until ball forms. Process until dough is smooth and elastic, about 30 seconds longer. Transfer dough to deep oiled bowl and cover with plastic wrap. Let rise until doubled in size, 1 1/2 to 2 hours. Press dough to deflate.

Shaping the Grissini

Adjust oven racks to upper-middle and lower-middle positions and heat oven to 350 degrees. Line 2 large rimmed baking sheets with parchment paper. Combine salt, pepper, fennel (if using) in small bowl; set aside.

Divide dough into two equal pieces. Working with one piece (and covering other piece with plastic), roll dough on heavily floured work surface to a 12 by 8-inch rectangle. Cut, stretch, and twist breadsticks following illustrations below, transferring each to prepared baking sheet.

Using pizza cutter or very sharp chef’s knife and ruler, slice dough into 3/4-inch-wide strips.

Working with one strip at a time, fold strip in half lengthwise.

On damp work surface, roll strip into rope slightly longer than baking sheet (dough will contract).

Baking the Grissini

Liberally spray breadsticks with nonstick cooking spray and sprinkle with seasoning mixture. Bake breadsticks until golden brown, 25 to 30 minutes, rotating baking sheets halfway through baking time. Slide breadsticks, still on parchment paper, onto wire racks; cool completely.